Thursday, July 4, 2019

Looking for Walrus in Iceland's Westfjords

The last time I drove through Iceland's mountainous West Fjords, I had a friend with me, an herbalist whom my Icelandic hosts gleefully referred to as my personal witch, and she'd brought a bottle of Rescue Remedy.

I needed it.

The roads were narrow and precipitous, and the view from the cliffs' edge down, down, down to the sparkling sea was mesmerizing, as if inviting me to soar and assuring me my rental car was capable of it. Swoop--the road rose and banked left, leaving a view of only sky, and I, well, I could keep going straight, couldn't I? And fly? I began to hyperventilate.

My fear of heights is not a fear of falling so much as the desire to fly.

Jenny, spying one of the rare pullouts on this route, urged me to stop and squeezed an eye-dropperful of Rescue Remedy onto my tongue. Whether the herb-and-alcohol mixture worked I can't say. But stopping, stretching, having a snack--these brought me back to sense. I handed her the keys. Jenny had not driven a stick for 20 years, but she agreed it was safer than letting me continue. We made it to our destination--the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft--and I promptly forgot my crisis on the cliff.


Six years and several trips to Iceland later, when I heard that a walrus had been spotted in the West Fjords, I didn't hesitate. I was researching the importance of walrus ivory in the Viking Age for my book about the Lewis chessmen, Ivory VikingsI rented a Yaris and drove off to see it--or at least the bay it was sporting in, named "Bay of the Walrus Breeding Grounds."

Walruses are rare visitors to Iceland today, but these elephantine relatives of seals may have been what drew the first Viking settlers to this inhospitable island in the 9th century. Walrus ivory was the Vikings' gold. Light and long-lasting, walrus tusks made the perfect cargo for a Viking ship. Viking raids were bankrolled with walrus ivory. Viking trade routes were built on them.

The medieval Icelandic sagas, written some 300 years after the settlement of the country, say the founding fathers were fleeing tyranny, that they refused to kowtow to King Harald of Norway.

But ancient names of Icelandic headlands, islands, beaches, and bays refer to walrus. Tusks and bones—of adults and neonates—have been found at archaeological sites dating to Iceland's first settlement, in about AD 871.

After a hundred-some years, Iceland's walrus were extinct. The Viking hunters found new sources in Greenland's far north. By the Saga Age, a walrus in Iceland was an oddity. Only one saga tells of a walrus hunt, a flotilla of boats pursuing one lone beast on the south side of the peninsula for which I was heading.

On the ferry to the West Fjords I bumped into a friend. That "Bay of the Walrus Breeding Grounds" lay on the north side of a high, sheer cliff famous for its colonies of seabirds. At least one tourist has plunged to his death trying to photograph a cute puffin, Gugga reminded me. She, being afraid of heights, did not enjoy her visit.

Another tourist attraction was nearby: the Red Sands, a long golden beach that looked perfect (from the pictures I'd seen) for walruses to breed and bask on.

What kind of car are you driving? Gugga asked. A Yaris? You won’t make it. The road is very steep, and there's a hairpin turn, and, well, if you don't meet any other cars you might be okay on the way down, but your engine isn't big enough to make it back up.

I'd booked an expensive room in a secluded hotel in a broad bay just to the north. It had a red sand beach as well. I revised my itinerary.

But not, as it happened, enough.


The roads were washboard gravel. No shoulders or break-down lanes. Guard rails were rare, as were lane markings--which was just as well, since these roads would be classified as single-track anywhere else in the developed world. It was a beautiful, sunny, windless day (it could have been much worse) and I was hyperventilating as the road swooped and soared and clung to the cliff edge. I stopped at every pull-out or picnic table I saw (at one stop I saw 14 camper vans in a caravan going the other way; thank heavens I was not sharing the road with them!), but there was no one to take the keys.

And no Rescue Remedy.

I began singing. "Hear me, smith of Heaven," goes a famous Icelandic hymn, "your poet begs for mercy." Ave Maria, gracia plena. "She’ll be coming round the mountain when she comes." I ran through my entire repertoire. At least it kept me breathing. I made it to the hotel, sank onto a soft bed with a view of the blissfully empty golden sand beach, and took the next 24 hours to recuperate.

I’d drive to the "Bay of the Walrus Breeding Grounds" before I turned for home, I told myself. It was less than 10 kilometers up the road.

That morning when I pulled back the drapes I saw a bank of fog rolling at freight-train speed across the gray ocean and rushing up the bluff. As I watched it blotted out the headland. I began to panic. The first mountain pass on my way home was the worse. So narrow it had designated passing spots--the edges of which were crumbling down the cliffside.

I drove as fast as I could, but failed to beat the fog. At the pass, sky and road were a uniform gray. I inched down the road, sweating, heart pounding, singing my lungs out. And Mary or Heaven’s maker or maybe the six white horses heard, and I met no other cars. I made it down and out of the fog.

I did not see a walrus in the West Fjords. I did not see the beaches they basked or bred on. And I am not driving back.

34 comments:

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  12. I have been suffering from (HERPES) disease for the last four years and had constant pain, especially in my knees. During the first year, I had faith in God that I would be healed someday.This disease started to circulate all over my body and I have been taking treatment from my doctor, a few weeks ago I came on search on the internet if I could get any information concerning the prevention of this disease, on my search I saw a testimony of someone who has been healed from (Hepatitis B and Cancer) by this Man Dr Iyoha and he also gave the email address of this man and advise we should contact him for any sickness that he would be of help, so I wrote to Dr Iyoha telling him about my (HERPES Virus) he told me not to worry that I was going to be cured!! hmm i never believed it,, well after all the procedures and remedy given to me by this man few weeks later I started experiencing changes all over me as the Dr. assured me that I have cured, after some time i went to my doctor to confirmed if I have been finally healed behold it was TRUE, So friends my advice is if you have such sickness or any other at all you can email Dr Iyoha dr.iyohasolutiontemple@yahoo.com or call : +1 407 337 9869 , Sir I am indeed grateful for the help I will forever recommend you to my friends!!!

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  17. TESTIMONY ON HOW I GOT CURED TOTALLY FROM HERPES VIRUS BY DR ISHIAKU HERBS

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  25. Natural roots/herbs are the best remedy which can easily eradicate herpes forever. I never believed it until I was helped and cured of my 3 years genital herpes with natural herbal medicines from Dr Kibaki. Were other medical prescribed drugs and treatments failed, Dr Kibaki natural herbs helped saved me and my family from Genital herpes permanently and I’m so grateful for this . You can also get help from this great and powerful African Herbalist Dr Kibaki by reaching him via email: moikibaki3@gmail.com or WhatsApp:+2349112627735.

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  26. I have got genital Herpes virus for some years and recently I was searching for updates online for the virus when I saw testimonies on how a herbal doctor cures Herpes with herbal meds so I decided to contact him and he guided me on what to do and he prepared and send the meds for me to drink and to my surprise I just tested negative for the second time on different lab. All the symptoms were gone immediately I stared drinking the meds! I cant believe that I got cured just by drinking a herbal medicine so I'm very grateful to this herbal doctor. reach him on his website https://excelherbalcure.com

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  27. A friend that suffered from Herpes and was cure with the help of this great herbal doctor Osebor so i decided to

    contact him for help in getting rid of my families genital herpes virus 1/2 which i did and all i was told to

    provide was just some useful information and some materials used in preparation of the natural cure and that i did

    and now i am the happiest person on earth because i am writing this testimony of mine with joy and happiness in my

    heart to the whole world to know that natural remedy is real because i am a living testimony of Dr O Osebor

    traditional herbal cure and i want you all to contact Dr Osebor to whom it may concern via his email:

    oseborwinbacktemple@gmail.com or WhatsApp him +2347033007165 am sure he will help you too

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  28. I want to share this great story to the world about how I was cured from HSV1&2 with herbal medication, I was nervous when I first contact this herbalist about the cure for HSV but I still decided to give him a try because I was desperate to get cured and be free from HSV. he prepared the herbal medication and sent it to me through Dhl delivery company which I use just the way he instructed me. I'm glad to be a beneficiary of this herbal cure! I went back to the hospital after waitin two to three weeks I tested Negative for the virus after all the symptoms had long gone! If you are going through the same situation you can contact him on his website https://excelherbalcure.com don't live all your life with such nasty viruses, it's not worth it.

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  29. I really gotta appreciate the only herbal doctor that was able to cure me from herpes 1&2 virus after I got infected with that nasty disease, I'm glad it's a thing of the past now because I have tested negative several times to the virus after I finished drinkin the herbal meds he sent me. get to know about Dr.Excel today by visitin his website https://excelherbalcure.com

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  30. I was in total dismay when I lost my entire savings investing in cryptocurrency, I was contacted online by a lady through email pretending to be an account manager of a bank, who told me I could make double my savings through cryptocurrency investment, I never imagined it would be a scam and I was going to lose everything. It went on for weeks until I realized that I had been scammed. All hope was lost, I was devastated and broke, fortunately for me, I came across an article on my local bulletin about Experienced Hackers Services, I contacted them and provided all the information regarding my case, I was amazed at how quickly they recovered my cryptocurrency funds and was able to trace down those scammers. I’m truly grateful for their service and I recommend them to everyone who needs to recover their funds urge you to contact them if you have lost your bitcoin USDT or ETH through bitcoin investment,
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